The classification dimensions of wool are diverse, and can be divided according to different criteria such as variety, fineness, use, and origin, and different categories differ significantly in quality, characteristics and application scenarios. The following are common classification methods and specific categories:
I. Classification of sheep by breed (core classification method)
This is the most basic classification, and the wool produced by different breeds of sheep differs greatly in terms of fiber structure, fineness, and gloss, and there are also obvious levels of quality.
(1) Fine-haired sheep breeds
The fine fiber, high uniformity and soft handfeel of wool is the main source of high-quality wool, suitable for the production of high-end wool products.
Buy Merino Wool
The best known fine wool variety in the world is native to Spain, and has been introduced to Australia, New Zealand and other countries to cultivate, among which Australian Merino wool has the best quality.
Features: The fiber is extremely fine (usually less than 17.5 microns, the top varieties can reach 11-13 microns), highly curly, good elasticity, strong warmth and breathability, and the hand feel is fine and smooth, and it is not easy to pick up balls.
Uses: high-end cashmere shirts, fine wool fabrics, suitable clothing, etc.
Chinese Merino Wool
The fine-haired sheep variety cultivated in China combines the excellent characteristics of foreign merino sheep and adapts to the domestic climate environment. The fiber thickness is about 18-20 microns, and the quality is close to that of imported merino wool.
Use: Mid-to-high-end fabrics, knitted clothing, etc.
(2) Semi-fine-haired sheep breeds
The fineness of wool is between fine and rough wool, and the fiber length is long, suitable for making medium-thick wool fabrics, blankets, etc.
Suffolk Wool
Native to the United Kingdom, the wool has a fineness of about 25-30 microns, a medium length, a good gloss and a high strength.
Uses: tweed fabrics, knit coats, carpets, etc.
Cowley replaces wool
Originally from New Zealand, the fiber has a fineness of 22-28 microns, is flexible and resistant to wear, and is suitable for mixed textile production of various types of fabrics.
(3) Crude sheep breeds
Wool is coarse in fiber and has a large difference in diameter, contains flannel and coarse wool, is good for warmth but has a rough hand feel, and is mainly used in making carpets, blankets, tweed coats, etc.
Mongolian wool
The wool produced by Mongolian sheep in China is coarse (30 microns or more), uneven in length, high in fat content, and strong in warmth.
Uses: Carpets, blankets, coated fabrics, and can also be used to make wool felt.
Xizang wool
Made from Xizang sheep in China, the fiber is coarse and hard, the length is long, and the toughness is good, suitable for making durable products such as carpets and tents.
(4) Specialized varieties of wool
Cashmere (often referred to as "soft gold")
Note: Strictly speaking, goat cashmere does not belong to wool (wool specifically refers to sheep hair), but it is often classified as a high-end wool material, supplemented here. It is a fine fur of the inner layer of a goat, with a fineness of 14-16 microns, which is extremely soft and warm.
Use: Top cashmere shirts, scarves, high-end clothing.
Alpaca Wool (Alpaca Wool)
Made from alpaca, it is divided into Suli alpaca wool (long fiber and shiny) and Huacao alpaca (soft and delicate to the hand), with a fineness of 18-22 microns, which is better for warmth than wool, and does not easily flap.
Use: High-end knitwear, wool fabrics.
II. Classification by wool thickness
Fineness is a key indicator of wool quality, which directly affects the feel and use of wool, usually expressed in "micron (μm)."
Ultrafine wool: fineness ≤ 18 microns, mainly Merino fine wool, used in high-end sportswear and fine fabrics.
Fine wool: 18-22 microns, suitable for the production of medium to high-end knitwear and tweed fabrics.
Semi-fine wool: 22-30 microns for medium-thick wool fabrics and mixed fabrics.
Coarse wool: > 30 microns, mainly used in carpets and rough textile products.
III. Classification by wool use
Wool for textiles: The fiber is of good quality (fine grain, moderate length) and strong textile ability. It is used to make clothing, scarves, blankets and other textiles. It covers fine and partly semi-fine hair.
Industrial wool: Crude wool or short fibre of poor quality, used in the manufacture of wool felts, filter materials, industrial seals, etc.
IV. Classification by place of origin of wool
The quality of wool from different places of production has unique characteristics due to differences in climate and breeding environment:
Australian wool: With Merino wool as the core, it is the core supply source for the global wool market, and is known as the "wool kingdom."
New Zealand wool: mainly semi-fine wool, suitable for making blankets and coated fabrics, and has high value for money.
China's wool: The output is among the highest in the world, covering fine, semi-fine and coarse wool, and the main production areas are Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang and Qinghai.
South African wool: mainly fine and semi-fine wool, with stable quality, is often used in mixed fabrics.
V. Other special categories
Raw Wool: Wool that has not been cleaned, combed and processed, containing impurities (dust, grease, sheep sweat, etc.), which needs to be processed before it can be used.
Scoured Wool: Wool that has been cleaned and degreased has removed most of the impurities and is the basic raw material for textile processing.
Carbonized Wool: Removing plant impurities (such as grass clippings) from wool through the carbonization process, suitable for making high-end fine woven fabrics.
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